Friday 30 August 2024

Hobby - Wood Work - Mon

Just a really quick something something...

All of the wooden weapons I've made have my symbol/icon/signature on them.


For recent pieces I've just engraved it on the item itself.  In prior eras I embedded a chit in the handle and engraved on that... just cos.

This symbol is referred to as a 'Mon' in (historical) Japanese culture.

Mine is a simple/stylized ant, and my workshop name is 'shiro-ari' or white ant - in probably mangled Japanese.


I chose this because my technique is largely centred around the sanding or gradual scraping or grinding of the piece to get the shape.   Unlike many wood techniques that do more planing or cutting (there's a difference).  I end up with a lot of wood dust... like a white ant  hahaha.

That's it.

Until next time...


Wednesday 7 August 2024

Hobby - Wood Work - Bokken Making Process... The Hard Way.

No, I'm not making new ones...

No, wait, it turns out I totally am, or at least I'm making one.
I was just intending to write down my process, just for fun, noting that I didn't have pictures of the making process as my previously makings were done in the pre-smart phone era.

There's nothing special or secret about any of it anyway.  It's mainly just work that would be classified as simple and tedious, though there's some creativity and artistic eye involved at times which made it worthwhile for me.


1)  Start with a block of decent wood. No cracks, divots, funky gnarls or knot holes etc. Obviously it needs to have the length and breadth for the pattern and needs to be about 30mm thick. 
As mentioned elsewhere I really liked NT ironwood for this, but the NSW spotted gum should work. I know of people who have used jarrah or purple heart even. Anything with a dense, tight grain is usually acceptable,  which leads to it having a good weight as well.  Most 'modern' commercial bokken are made out of 'white oak' or 'red oak' which does the job well enough, and I'm guessing they're used because of availability and also the wood is less likely to have imperfections, and definitely less hidden cracks or gum deposits than Australian native wood.


2)  Draw on the profile outline (drawing around a bokken you have works just fine if you like the shape), then cut out the profile to roughly the right shape - cut wide/outside the outline rather than into/inside the outline. In my previous era of making I used an electric jigsaw for this, and this was the only time I used an electric tool in the process (before I received the block doesn't count). NT Ironwood sometimes used up 2 or 3 blades due to the resilience of the wood. It's bloody hard stuff.

This piece was made out of Blackbutt, because that's what I had - this project was also an experimental exercise to see how this wood faired.  Now, post-process, I think it's not as dense as I'd like. It has nice grain and isn't super-splintery. Just not my number one choice, and I wouldn't feel comfortable about making them for other people.

The piece of wood I had was smaller than I could use for a regular bokken (too narrow) so I decided to free-hand a 'chissai-katana' version.


3)  I now have the 'blank' for the piece. Put it in a bench vice and using a plane (just a handheld jackplane) cut down the blank to the drawn-on template shape.

For this project I used an electric plane, and then the belt sander to grind to the outline.

And then drew on the front centre-line and rear bevel shaping. 


4)  From there I use the plane (or a rasp works) to start paring down the curves of the cross section.  The piece will be all curves, so we need to start taking off the corners of the block.  On the front edge this is easy enough and a jack planes is still suitable.  For the rear face and 'spine' it's probably better to use a spokeshave (or rasp).

This is the spokeshave I have historically used.  I picked it up by chance at a little independent tool shop I happened to walk by one day. It was really good for the task given that it allowed greater (perhaps perceived) curve handling than a flat-bottomed plane (even better than the 'standard' european spoke shave types).

I would typically also take the edges off the handle portion of the piece, but leaving enough flat sections to keep it manageable for gripping firmly in the vice.

For this project I used a rasp, and coarse grit sandpaper to rough out the shape.


5)  So now I have a basically 'chunky' bokken shaped piece. A curvy club.  I would normally give the entire piece a quick parse over with coarse grit sand paper at this stage (40grit) just to start feeling the curvature within the weapon.  Normally the template I used had some wastage built into the outline so there was the capacity to slowly grind down the shape without worrying about it being too spindly as a result.  This is the last of the 'planing' steps.

So now the piece has a basic silhouette and also a basic cross-section.


6)  I then use a metal template to start cutting out the 'maximum cross section'.


This is a matter of using metal scrapers and coarse sandpaper to nibble the blade down to the maximum shape it needs to be, starting at the tip and moving all the way down the blade section. Grind and scrape carefully until the blade just fits into the metal template.  Any shiny points where there is too much material shows where to grind away on the next parse.  This is tedious but gets a consistent 'blank', from where the artistic stuff can start.
The metal scrapers are just metal plates with a sharp edge, that can be used to scrape away ribbons of wood - the opposite of planes. And for sandpaper I use sanding belts from belt sanders chopped into sections which have a nice solid backing so they don't break up like actual paper sheets do/can.

By the end of this process I will have a piece that had a very bokken-like shape, though still too chunky.

For this project I actually alternated between 40grit paper and using the edge of an actual stanley knife as my scraper.  The blades are sharp, and when dulled I could just replace them rather than need to sharpen anything.  Here we can see that the process is scraping, not whittling or cutting. 

The template slides down the blade until it binds, then more material is taken off. This probably took me four sessions (4 nights for an hour or two depending on how enthusiastic I was, it was quite meditative) to get all the way down.

Here we can see the process marked by the shaped blade toward the tip, and the ridge where the template no longer goes.  As I was working I soon found out that the piece was excessively wide all the way along, so I planned down a couple of millimetres off the sides.


7)  The next steps are all 'by eye', and I switch between several things going on at once.
   i)  taper the sides of the blade. So on the sides I'll use the scraper and sandpaper to create greater width toward the handle, and narrower width blade toward the tip.  A 'standard' process might involve doing 10 scrapes along 3/4 of the length (from the 'tip-ward' end), 10 more scrapes from 1/2 the length, and 10 more scrapes on the final 1/4 of the length. Repeat with sandpaper. This provides a wedge aspect when viewed from the top and the blade is narrower toward the tip.
  ii)  make sure the curve of the front of the blade is flowing nicely. start getting out any flat spots or divots as best as possible.
  iii)  also make sure the cross section of the blade is curved suitable. taking out material on the sides means the curvature will narrow (usually toward the tip) so take off material to keep the rounded parts flowing with continuous proportion... I know what I mean  :)
 iv)  also make sure the back cross section of the blade is curving proportionally.  The actual 'spine' which is flat should remain the same but the angled trailing edge/back of the blade is still curved and needs to flow in the same manner as the front.

This portion of the process normally takes the most time, but requires continual assessment of the piece, and removing material gradually... cos you can't put it back on if you stuff up.  It's probably the most enjoyable part for me and a chance to just zen out in the work.

By the end of the process you should pretty much have close to the final shape of the bokken.

Once the 'blade' section is done I'd then flip the piece in the vice and shape the handle too.  This is more or less just a basic oval cross section. perhaps slightly narrower to the front.  It's often a case of do some work on it then see how it feels in the hands.


8)  I would then switch to finer grade sandpaper, probably 120grit or maybe 240grit and look at refining the shape of the blade, specifically looking to make the curves as 'continuous curvy' as possible. After that I'd have another crack at the handle to get that feeling nice too.


9)  Kind of a sub-step in the shaping but I'd then look at the back of the handle/spine of the blade and cut an edge where the tsuba (hand guard) sits.  This is really just a matter of carefully, bringing the spine to a crisp finish point where the handle starts.  It'd probably also spend a little time reviewing the spine and trailing edge of the blade as this can get overlooked a little when concentrating on the front of the blade. The lines should be fairly straight with the spine tapering gently toward the blade tip.

And that's about it for the main/hard/time consuming parts.  You theoretically have a finished bokken right there with all the correct shapes, curves and features.  But of course there's finishing to be done to make bothering to use that painful wood worth the effort.

9b)  I think (from memory) that at this point I normally cut in my little signature block on the handle. This is a matter of cutting out the cocobola rectangle, then cutting in a divot onto the handle with a chisel and trying not to rip out edges and ruin the piece after all that effort.  once the block is ready, glue it in, wait for the glue to dry, have a well deserved break, drink a beer, wonder if being covered in this much wood dust is all worth the effort...

Once the block is set then use sand paper to shape it back to the handle's profile.


10)  From there I'd start looking at the finish - using finer and finer grades of sandpaper to make all parts of the surface smoother and smoother.  From memory I'd use 400grit, then 800grit and finally 1200grit.

By this stage the piece should look pretty mint.  There should be no cracks or divots or splinter points when you run the blade across your hand.

For this project   I didn't bother with pics of the shaping process but suffice to say... it happened.  I got the piece to a shape I was happy enough with, and then finished the surface with 240grit, 400grit and 600grit.


11) From there I use my burnishing block (below), to rub/press/compress the surface to a shiny and smooth finish.

There's nothing fancy about the block. It's just an off cut of ironwood.  Shaped a little over time to give different edges if required.
A fairly firm pressure is required for burnishing, but it's far from strenuous. Perhaps give it a second parse if you feel like it.  It helps to have good light, sunlight works, to make sure the surface is shiny all over the piece.


12)  I normally put my signature on the piece about now, using just a hand held engraver.  Then refinish (1200grit and burnish) that section to clean it up.


13) Finally... I (historically) had some length of material that I soaked or wet with linseed oil.  I wrapped these around the entire piece, wrapped it in (probably) plastic bags to keep the oil contained, and set the piece aside for a couple of days to (hopefully) soak up some of the oil.  the wraps weren't dripping with oil by any means, so the plastic bags just stopped it getting oil on anything it was sitting on.  My understanding is that the harder/smoother the surface the less oil is inclined to just soak right into the grain, hence leaving it sit and allowing it to penetrate the grain as best as possible.

Really you could (and I do this now) just oil the surface and let it dry for a couple of hours. The burnishing means the oil isn't really required in order to end up with a nice finish, though the oil does tend to bring out the grain just that little bit more.  The oil's mainly there to help combat hand grime soaking into the surface - which is not such a big issue with these darker woods anyway tbh.


13.5)  After appropriate soaking time, unwrap, wipe off all the excess oil and you're done.
TADA!  You now have one overly complicated, time consuming bokken.




Obviously the effort is very much (or more) about the process, as much as it is about having the final product.


11-13)  Summary results for the new piece.

The wood did not burnish well. It's a little too porous compared with the Spotted Gum even, and while it does shine a little bit... it's no Ironwood.

I do like the grain of it, and after finishing and a taste of linseed oil it actually turned out nice. Not sure how fit for purpose it's going to be... only training use is going to reveal that.

This shows a before and after compared to the other half of the stick the bokken came from.

As usual... no desire what so ever to make any more of these, but it was enjoyable enough at the time.


[update 2024-08-12]
On a whim I made a tsuba (hand guard) from some rock maple. Turned out as well as I'd hoped.

I did pin it with a bamboo skewer through the front and back (of where the blade sits) as it's a relatively fragile piece and a decent knock would probably split it in two without some extra structural support.
We generally don't block or take strikes on the tsuba - if there's deflecting going on it's in the handle-most section of the blade itself.  If you have a blade against the tsuba something has generally gone wrong.

Anyway just a fun project to occupy the mind and hands.



[update 2024-08-13]
Ok, I probably went overboard.  Oh well...




Until next time...

Sunday 21 July 2024

Hobby - Wood Work - ... Yep

So the day hasn't even drawn to a close before the next adventures in wood starts.

To be fair I already had blanks and a template drawn out for the next project, and today I did nothing more than marking out some lines on them...

These will be yari blades.  Yari are/were Japanese spears, usually reasonably long, and intended for longer range (longer than a sword), hand held fighting (thrusting), not for chucking (i.e. like a javelin)...

The real/metal version is often portrayed like this, with a triangular cross section, though there are quite a lot of other patterns as well.  And I like this style personally.

Back in the day I made a small number of these, with a simpler shape, but I recently gave the last of them away.  I'm contemplating using this basic shape again, mainly because the metal shape mightn't work with a thin part near the shaft made with wood.  We'll see.  [ed: Upon reflection it's quite similar. I think when I get to the shaping process I'll probably see what the wood tells me, rather than pre-planning it.]


2024-07-15
Planed down the blocks to required thickness. Daytime job. And how good are electric planes!?!

2024-07-16
Had a look at the spare block of black butt I have in light of maybe making a new bokken just for fun. It's a fraction too narrow for my usual shape unfortunately.

Am going to look around to see if I can source some alternate wood locally. Old train line sleepers or similar maybe.  So apparently I have been enjoying the process far too much :)


2024-07-20
I started shaping all three pieces. Including roughing out the blade outline and also shaping the 'tang' in roughly.


2024-07-21
Well that rated in as... a whole bunch of effort.

Got a stick from bunnings... yesterday. Horrible wood and not cheap either - pretty disgusting the state of things tbh.  But I'm not carving an entire 2+ meter spear shaft out by hand though. 
Below, cut a slot in the stick, and then matched the blade to the stick, trying to keep enough material in both parts for as much strength as possible in both pieces.

Like many aspects of this project the shape and dimensions were very fluid until they started to emerge as I was working.  Making the main cross-section of the blade was among the easier tasks, not so much the tang and transition section.

But I got there in the end. Turned out as well as I'd have hoped for.  Overall length 2.4 meters which was based on what fits in the car easily.

As per my metal one, I put a fuller on the flat side. It was a really boring flat plane otherwise. This actually made the piece pop, so it was a great addition.

And the top/triangular side turned out nice enough. The base of the blade developed into a nice enough shape once it was mounted on the stick and reshaped. String wrap (and glue) over double pinning for extra strength. The blade is not used for cutting or chopping (with the long blade edge) per se, it's almost entirely a thrusting weapon so there should be enough strength in this connection style.

This turned out to be bloody hard to pre-shape, especially for the transition section (between the blade proper and the tang) which looked really chunky and ugly and bulbous all the way until final shaping right until the final shaping.  Once I had the blade set, then shaped the blade to the stick and smoothed it down, and it just kind of appeared and flowed.  Pretty happy with it really.  Sometimes it just pays to let the wood speak to you as you're making.

It took all day just making one, so the other two are... spare... indefinitely. The main shaping required for the blade, and then for setting, and then for combining, then reshaping... just takes so damn long. It was an enjoyable day, but it's not a batchable job.

I think... I probably do like this shape better than the original ones I made way back when. There's more visual interest there.  The older ones were more or less ovalized rectangles (cross section) with rounded edges.  This is clearly far more.

A couple more pics showing the grain, which is actually quite nice...

Until next time...

Monday 15 July 2024

Hobby - Wood Work - Some More

Did I say I'd never being doing wood work again last time?  I'll have to check.  If so, then clearly I was wrong.  [ed: I didn't strictly swear off doing more, I just didn't think that I would. Sigh...]

Made a weekend trip up to Sydney to find some wood.  As much as the range at the usual place is better than everywhere else in terms of 'specialty wood', I'd be remiss to say that the quality is particularly good.  Finding clean pieces of anything exotic can be difficult, and most of the fancy Australian wood is all but unavailable due to ever growing logging bans.  Which is pretty stupid because trees ARE renewable if anyone actually bothers doing things correctly and long term.... which they don't.

Anyways, for starters I got a plank of rock maple.  Was 10mm thick which was perfect for my project.  I'd already whipped up a plywood template for senban shuriken.

Roughed them out on the bandsaw...


Finalized the outline, added edge detail and started smoothing with the belt sander...

Hand sanding to get the surfaces smooth and 'nice (...enough)', then burnished all over...

Ending up with six pieces all up. There were initially seven, but I experimented putting a 'traditional' hole in the centre. The piece snapped in half, so I left the remaining pieces all solid.  Makes them sturdier and the hole provided a very obviously (in hindsight) weak point to the grain.

Next up I got a piece of Blackbutt and some Spotted Gum.  The Blackbutt is not allocated to a project yet, but it was a (rare) nice piece of wood with relatively few flaws, and decent weight, so I picked it up 'just in case'.

The Spotted Gum was cut down into a 'jo' length (approx 120cm), and a 'tanbo' length (approx 50cm).

I then used the electric plane to 'octagon' them down from square...

And from them I've just started using the belt sander to smooth the octagon into effectively a round dowel.  The diameter (of both) is about 40mm - the tanbo needs to be about 30mm, and the jo needs to be about 25mm.

Once the piece is 'round enough' I'll start scraping it down to parallel and round.  that's going to take a while and is the more 'traditional' aspect to the work I do.

I'm definitely abandoning the 'everything by hand' approach.  My hands already hurt, and at this stage I'd rather get a result quicker, while conversely there's no thrill in it being done with nothing but hand tools anymore.  It's still going to hurt :)


2024-07-12

Got some linseed oil so I can get things finished off 'proper'.

Have given my poor old bashed up original bokken a taste, and the new senban shuriken too.

Work continued on the bo shuriken (just 4 in this batch) which were off cuts from the tanbo/jo project.

Lefty;  a plywood sizing template for copying the size of the old ones to the new ones... more or less.

Middley;  new pieces now ground to rough shape.

Righty;  my old Bo shuriken. Geez I'm annoyed that ironwood isn't available anymore. Fuck you hypocritical greenies!


Fine shaping, 280grit, 400grit, burnishing and a splash of linseed oil.  Doneski.
I really don't mind the colour they come out, it's pretty and interesting in its own way.

Anyways, these turned out ok.  The surface layer smoothness/sheen and weight is definitely acceptable.

And with that done I have no further procrastination pieces to do before getting back on the tanbo/jo... hahaha.


2024-07-14

Ok, next up, roughing out the jo.

For those not familiar with japanese martial arts...   a 'jo' is a 4 foot stick,  a 'bo' is 6 foot stick,  a 'hanbo' is a 3 foot stick, and a 'tanbo' is a 2 foot stick... more or less.

I started by planing away more stock from the piece (again), then sanded it back to round (again), as below...


I then found a scrap beam and drilled a 30mm hole through it to make a sizing template. I needed the depth within the beam in order to help keep the jo 'aligned' or at least straight(er) within the template hole.
From here I started alternating between carefully machine sanding (80grit) and also hand sanding (240grit), getting the stick to just fit through the template. When the stick binds in the template hole it leaves a shiny patch which makes it easy to see where the high points are that need reduction. Not rocket science.

Had to switch the template to vertical as the stick bottomed out on the floor. And this is the piece done, with a maximum of 30mm diameter all the way along.

From here cleaning up any ugly grind marks or divots as best as possible. It's not a perfectly symmetrical cylinder, but if you want a machine-made dowel then go to bunnings.
This is a (more or less) before and after the processing...

At this stage the entire piece has been hand sanded to 240grit.  I can feel imperfections along the length which isn't really a problem as far as I'm concerned.  I will probably review it to get it as straight and consistent as I can by eyeball, but it's effectively at final shape.  The original spec was for 25mm diameter and it's probably about 27-28mm on average now - I won't be taking it all the way down to 25mm, this diameter is where the wood said it wanted to go.  Swinging it around, it already feels very smooth and manoeuvrable in the hands.

The shaping stage is the most time consuming.


2024-07-15

Repeated the shaping process for the tanbo.  Drilled a 35mm template hole and removed the excess stock from the piece.

Worked on the more obviously ugly scratch blemishes on both pieces but at this stage there's still some minor imperfections, which adds texture or 'rustic-ness' or 'authenticity'... which is obviously a cope cos I'm lazy hahaha.

The tanbo finished at about a 32mm diameter.

Both then got a sand over with 240grit and down to 400grit.  Really liking the results.

Later

Did a little more surface work but there wasn't that much required. Once over with 240grit, then a couple of parses with 400grit, then a sand with 600grit.

Burnished both of them, put my mark on them, touched up with 600grit and reburnish.  Then a thin coat of linseed oil.

And they're done.  A lot of fuss over a stick... yep, maybe.

I do have a couple of other small projects in the works but this is it for the immediate future.

The process has been enjoyable - the fun is working out how to get the result as much as getting the result.

Until next time...